HA231220: Beyond Fiordland: New Zealand's Wildest Islands

BEYOND FIORDLAND

on board HERITAGE ADVENTURER

20 - 31 December 2023

Day 1
Queenstown
20 December

Our Beyond Fiordland adventure began in Queenstown, New Zealand's alpine adventure capital as we, travellers from around the globe, made our way to our accommodations for the first night. After settling in, a delicious dinner was enjoyed by all and new friendships formed. We also learned more about what to expect on our upcoming adventure. It was an early night, as we eagerly awaited our departure tomorrow in Bluff.

Day 2
Queenstown/Bluff
21 December

After enjoying breakfast at the hotel and an exploration of this iconic Kiwi destination, we boarded our buses and headed south to Bluff. Along the way, we enjoyed stunning views down Lake Wakatipu and the Devil's Staircase. Arriving at South Port, we boarded our new home away from home Heritage Adventurer, and after settling in and a lifeboat drill, Captain Tomasz set our course due south.

Expedition Leader Dan Brown led a briefing in the Lounge and shared tomorrow's plans, along with introductions to the Expedition Team as we enjoyed the company of new-found friends. Later in the Dining Room appetites were whetted with the first of many delicious three-course meals while Heritage Adventurer slowly cruised past Stewart Island as the sun melted into the horizon.

Day 3
Sea day
22 December

After being gently rocked to sleep following a very calm sea, we woke up to a sumptuous breakfast prepared by Chef Gunter and the team. We enjoyed our morning coffee while observing an incredible show of Campbell and Southern Royal Albatross, Cape and Storm Petrels following Heritage Adventurer as she navigated further south.

After breakfast and undertaking quarantine checks of our gear, we enjoyed hearing about Lindsay's involvement in the eradication of pests from Campbell Island, along with a general introduction to Campbell Island. This was followed by a collective presentation from the Expedition Team which covered the island's geology and resident Hoiho/Yellow-eyed Penguins, New Zealand/Hooker's Sea Lions and megaherbs in a skilfull preparation for what awaited on Campbell Island the next day.

That evening, we enjoyed a drink at the Captain's Welcome Dinner, where Captain Tomasz introduced himself and his senior team. We learned about the 84 staff working to keep Heritage Adventurer running, representing 14 different nationalities on board. Once again, we were treated to a scrumptious meal while enjoying another acrobatic show from our seabird friends in the setting sun.

Day 4
Campbell Island
23 December

After much anticipation, we arrived at our first Subantarctic destination - Campbell Island. Our approach was cloaked in early morning mist as Heritage Adventurer sailed into Perseverance Harbour.

We were given three options for the day's adventure; either a morning Zodiac cruise and an afternoon boardwalk up to Col Lyall Saddle, an expedition hike up Mount Honey, or a longer walk around to North West Bay. On the morning's Zodiac cruise, we were treated to beautifully calm conditions, almost glass-like in parts. As our drivers slowly weaved our way through Tucker and Garden Cove, we were treated to an array of amazing wildlife including Elephant Seals (both Weaners and a large male), a New Zealand Sea Lion colony, Skuas, Southern Giant Petrel chicks and Yellow-eyed Penguin chicks. We also visited 'The World's Loneliest Tree', a Sitka Spruce.

Those who opted for the day walk up Mount Honey saw the rare Campbell Island Snipe darting around in the bushes just above Garden Cove. As the group worked its way up the slopes of Mount Honey, more and more of the megaherb fields opened up with Pleurophyllum speciosum just starting to burst into flower, and countless orchids set amongst the coastal Dracophyllum and the colourful Anisotome latifolia. As the megaherbs increased in height, they increasingly became dotted with Southern Royal Albatross heads. In some special situations their unique calling could be heard, as the birds undertook gamming in search of a mate. The whoosh noise overhead was something quite unique as the birds increasingly came in to land in the later afternoon. Observing this wonderful behaviour of the Southern Royal Albatross were not just limited to those who opted to visit Mount Honey; those undertaking the North West Bay and Col Lyall Saddle walk were also treated to these very special interactions.

After enjoying dinner, we were introduced to the True Young Explorers on board, as they introduced themselves and their passion for the Southern Ocean's unique flora, fauna, history and culture.

Day 5
Auckland Islands
24 December

As morning broke, Captain Tomasz had navigated Heritage Adventurer into Carnley Harbour just south of Auckland Island. We learned of the large pest-free Adam Islands, the home to the Gibson's Wandering Albatross. Boarding our Zodiacs we explored the coastline as Light-mantled Sooty Albatross flew overhead, demonstrating excellent examples of their famous synchronised flying in pairs. Moving closer to the coastline of Adams Island we observed our first Auckland Island Teal, playing in the seaweed along with an array of Auckland Island Shags. Lush megaherbs grew abundantly on Adams Island all the way down to the waterline, clear evidence of the importance of the pest-free status of this place.

On our return to Heritage Adventurer, we were lucky to discover a juvenile Gibson's Wandering Albatross sitting not far from the ship, yet another rare and wonderful example of the rich biodiversity on Adams Island, proving an aspiration for the wider Auckland Islands group.

That afternoon as we travelled north, we undertook a scenic cruise around North Arm of Carnley Harbour, learning about the wrecks of the Grafton and Ranui. We observed New Zealand/Hooker's Sea Lions playing around the Figure of Eight Island. As Heritage Adventurer made her way further north, the fog set in. The eerie feeling of the Island cloaked in fog showed how older ships missing key navigational aids managed to get in trouble on the Auckland Islands, as demonstrated by the key wrecks in the area.

We were treated to a medley of presentations from the on board naturalists with Mat on the Broader Geography of the Auckland Islands, Glenda on the Sooty Shearwater, and Dan on Seabird Identification.

Day 6
Enderby Island
25 December

Christmas Day on Enderby Island! The sun broke on a beautiful summer day in the Subantarctic and we could already see from Heritage Adventurer the wildlife waiting for us with numerous New Zealand/Hooker's Sea Lions playing in the sea between us and the shore.

Some of us headed off for a long walk, circumnavigating the Island and didn't need to wait long to be treated by the show which was unfolding on Sandy Bay; with large beachmaster Sea Lions rounding up their harem of females, while 97 Sea Lion pups searched for their mums among the chaos. As the walk continued, we came across 29 Yellow-eyed penguins along the coast, and a few larger male Sea Lions came over to see what we were up to, while we also got a glimpse of the rare Auckland Island Snipe. The day was not just for wildlife; Glenda shared some of the maritime history of the area as we stopped at Derry Castle Reef, we learned of the fate of the Derry Castle and subsequent wrecks.

Others opted for a Zodiac cruise around the magnificent and dramatic basaltic columns of Enderby Island, observing Yellow-eyed Penguins, Shags, and Light-mantled Sooty Albatross which were sitting precariously on a nest on the edge of the exposed Subantarctic coastline.

After a delicious lunch we boarded the Zodiacs returning to Enderby Island on what had become an increasingly sunny day. As we approached, we could hear and see the activities unfolding on Sandy Bay. Slowly making our way up the boardwalk, the full bloom of the expansive carpet of Bulbinella rossii and Anisotome latifolia was revealed. Occasionally, a small white head of a Southern Royal Albatross showed itself sitting amongst the colourful blooms. As the afternoon progressed, we heard and saw younger Albatross gamming, calling, and putting on a show as they sought a potential mate. By the time we returned to the beach, the Sea Lion pup count had increased from 97 to 100 pups born this season.

Returning to Heritage Adventurer, we found the crew had pulled out all stops to put on a magnificent Christmas spread, feeling somewhat jolly after a bit too much delicious food, we couldn't help but reflect on the wonderful wildlife encounters which were had. What a way to spend Christmas day.

Day 7
The Snares Islands and Western Chain
26 December

Today began with the gentle awakening of a serene morning as Heritage Adventurer gracefully navigated the Snare Islands group. From the deck, we sipped our morning coffee while passing great rafts of Tītī /Sooty Shearwaters. The distant cry of Snares Crested Penguins filled the air, foreshadowing the day's star attraction.

After a delicious breakfast, we eagerly boarded our Zodiacs for an exploration along the sheltered east coastline of North West Island. Wildlife greeted us almost immediately - small baitfish swarmed our boats, drawing the attention of Snares Crested Penguins as they porpoised towards us, while others made their way to the steep granite slope famously known as the 'Penguin Slide'. With each wave against the slope, dozens of penguins skilfully climbed up the treacherous slide on their way to feed hungry chicks as others timed their return to the ocean on the same waves.

Throughout the day we immersed ourselves in the wonders of the Snares Islands including its epic geology showcasing rugged granite slopes and captivating rock formations. Sea caves beckoned, inviting us to explore their hidden depths and marvel at the forces of nature at play. Nature continued to astound us with its wonders as we encountered a Leopard Seal, New Zealand/Hooker's Sea Lions playing in the waters, while lazing New Zealand Fur Seals contributed to the rich marine tapestry of the Snares Islands.

As we ship cruised around the Western Chain, we were treated to the graceful presence of Buller's, Chatham and Salvin's Albatross soaring above the waves, a majestic spectacle in the New Zealand skies. Reflecting on the day, the untouched beauty and vibrant wildlife of the Snares Islands effortlessly etched unforgettable memories into our journey through New Zealand's enchanting Subantarctic landscapes.

Day 8
Stewart Island
27 December

As the sun heralded another extraordinary day on our journey, Heritage Adventurer glided peacefully northward, entering the calm waters of Paterson Inlet. We sailed towards the tranquillity of Ulva Island for a memorable walk among its rugged wilderness and native bird sanctuary. Trekking through the picturesque Ulva Island revealed a vibrant tapestry of nature's wonders and birdlife as Yellowhead/Mohua, Kākā, Saddleback/Tīeke, Tūī, Kererū, Bellbird/Korimako, Robins, and Grey Warbler graced our path. The afternoon was dedicated to exploring the charms of the Oban township, immersing ourselves in the local atmosphere, uncovering hidden gems and, for some, enjoying a drink with the friendly locals at the iconic South Sea Hotel.

Nature gifted us a beautiful afternoon with smooth weather, the clear water mirroring the tranquillity of our surroundings. Our journey fostered new friendships, each encounter adding richness to our shared adventure. Simultaneously, we bid fond farewells to some adventurers, departing this part of the voyage and new friends joining us for the remaining leg. As we reflect on these moments, our journey unfolds as a mosaic of natural beauty, community, and serenity.

Day 9
Dusky Sound
28 December

We awoke to a soft Fiordland morning with the Fiords cloaked in rain clouds. As the drizzle slowly set in; we boarded our trusty Zodiacs and set out on an exploration of the coast of Resolution Island. As we cruised our way through Facile Harbour, we learned about many New Zealand firsts, which included the dubious insurance fraud of the Endeavour in 1795, the first beer brewed and the first European woman in New Zealand, and potentially the first child.

We continued around to the striking outcrop of Fiordland gneiss where we rafted our Zodiacs together and Mat gave an overview of geological history of Fiordland. In the outcrop, we could see evidence of past earthquakes meticulously detailed in a series of veins shown in the rock face.

Shortly after we landed at Pigeon Island, Lindsay showed us around Richard Henry's house site and Kiwi pen. We learned about his early trials and tribulations in battling for the conservation of species in the early 1900s on Resolution Island.

Returning to Heritage Adventurer for a sumptuous lunch and to dry off, the afternoon was spent following the footsteps of Captain Cook. We enjoyed a Zodiac cruise around Cascade Cove visiting some of the early sites visited by Cook's Resolution voyage in 1773. Finally, it was up to Astronomer's Point where we learned of early interactions between Māori and Cook's Men, along with visiting the survey peg originally laid by William Wales in undertaking his celestial observations and accurately marking New Zealand on the world map.

After a full day of exploring the natural and cultural history of Dusky Sound the weather had cleared up allowing for a fantastic BBQ dinner as Heritage Adventurer slowly wound her way up Acheron Passage toward Breaksea Sound.

Day 10
Doubtful and Milford Sound
29 December

Our adventure in Fiordland continued in the morning with a Zodiac cruise to predator-free Secretary Island. After landing, we embarked on a walk through the dense wet bush. The trail led us through native Mistletoe in full bloom, accompanied by the constant chatter of Kākā, Fantails, and Bellbirds.

Following our walk, a Zodiac cruise offered a glimpse of the flourishing flora with flowering Rātā and Kamahi dotting the landscape. We delved into the fascinating world of the Crayfish industry, explored a historical Sealers' station, learned about the marine reserve, and visited the area associated with the Spanish Malaspina Expedition.

Back on board Heritage Adventurer, we headed north towards Milford Sound entertained by a fascinating range of lectures as Lindsay enlightened us on Fiordland's conservation efforts, focusing on the protection of Kiwi in Shy Lake and the impact of the 1080 operation in Wet Jacket Arm. It was then a compelling panel discussion on community-led conservation, featuring insights from Aaron Russ, Tamzin, Lindsay, and Blake. Each shared personal stories, revealing their motives, drives, and reasons for actively participating in conservation.

The day culminated as we navigated through the awe-inspiring Milford Sound. The sheer drama of glacial features, gneiss rocks, numerous waterfalls, tree avalanches, and virgin bush unfolded around us. As we enjoyed our dinner, we retraced our path out of Milford Sound, heading south toward Tamatea/Dusky Sound, with the memories of a day filled with nature's wonders and conservation inspiration.

Day 11
Dusky Sound
30 December

We awoke to Heritage Adventurer gently cruising back into Dusky Sound, to yet another beautiful fiord cloaked in mist. As we enjoyed our morning coffee and delicious breakfast, a pod of Bottlenose Dolphins welcomed us back, surfing in our wake as we cruised along Acheron Passage.

Appropriately we set anchor just south of Anchor Island for the day's excursions. Some of us opted for a Zodiac cruise around the Many Islands, exploring all of the nooks and crannies of both the Many Islands and Anchor Island. We were greeted by some seriously cute New Zealand Fur Seal pups, who performed all forms of yoga from nearby rocky platforms.

Some of us opted for a scenic helicopter flight up to Mount Pembroke where we rose above the clouds to enjoy spectacular views of Fiordland and out to the Tasman Sea. While others chose to take a quiet walk through Anchor Island, enjoying the special biobank which included a stronghold of Yellowhead/Mohua and other species on offer. After navigating our way through the sprawling forest, our views soon opened to Lake Kirirua in the heart of Anchor Island.

In the afternoon, our Captain repositioned Heritage Adventurer to Resolution Island, where an afternoon Zodiac cruise had us exploring the coastline of Resolution Island through Duck Cove. A seemingly perfect way to finish this fabulous adventure before we were treated to the Captain's Farewell Cocktails, slide show of our adventures and exquisite farewell banquet which rounded out our journey as we sailed back to Bluff.

Day 12
Bluff
31 December

The final day of our adventure had arrived. It was a bittersweet feeling as we enjoyed one last delicious breakfast, and exchanged contact information with fellow adventurers. Departing in Bluff, we said goodbye to our fabulous Expedition Team and everyone on board Heritage Adventurer who made this journey so incredible, bound for new adventures.