HA231116: New Zealand Coastal Odyssey: The Ultimate Cruise of the New Zealand Coast

NEW ZEALAND COASTAL ODYSSEY

on board HERITAGE ADVENTURER

16 November - 26 November 2023

Day 1
November 16, 2023
Auckland

Our New Zealand Coastal Odyssey adventure began at the Grand Millennium Hotel in Central Auckland. There we met our fellow adventurers and John and Steve from the Heritage Expedition team and enjoyed a welcome dinner aptly named labelled 'A Taste of New Zealand' - and what a sumptuous taste it was. We retired early with a feeling of excitement, as our grand adventure started tomorrow.

Day 2
November 17, 2023
Rotorua, Tauranga

Our day started after a delicious breakfast. There was an exciting feeling in the air as we boarded the coach to meet the Heritage Adventurer, with a stop in Rotorua along the way. The coach soon left the city and travelled through the rolling green countryside to the thermal area of Te Puia in Rotorua. We enjoyed a varied buffet lunch, including dishes prepared in the steam ovens of Whakarewarewa. From the table we watched Pōhutu Geyser erupting across the valley. Next up, we met our guide for a tour of the New Zealand Māori Arts and Crafts Institute and the thermal area. We witnessed first-hand the work of experts, and the training of new wood, stone and bone carvers and weavers. Their skill and patience were truly remarkable.

We ventured outside to visit Kiwi House to observe New Zealand's iconic national bird - who mostly remained hidden - and to view the mud pools and geysers of Whakarewarewa. The steam and sulphur smell made it clear that the forces of the earth were very close to the surface. It's easy to understand why indigenous people chose to use this power and give this place special cultural significance.

Then it was back on the coach for the short transfer through the lush agricultural land of the Bay of Plenty to the Port of Tauranga to meet our new home away from home, Heritage Adventurer. After we settled in we were greeted by Captain Thomasz with instructions for the Lifeboat drill.

It was a busy afternoon and evening exploring the beautiful Heritage Adventurer's lounges, restaurants, and decks with so many wonderful viewpoints to enjoy our adventure from. We convened for our introduction to the ship from Hotel Director Erik, and the voyage and expedition team from Expedition Leader Cheli.

By then we had worked up an appetite and enjoyed our first delicious dinner in the dining room. Already knowing that we were going to be very spoiled on this voyage.

Day 3
November 18, 2023
Gisborne

The transit to Gisborne meant that we had the morning at sea. We enjoyed breakfast before John started our education programme with his presentation on- A Look at the First Encounters Between Māori and English Under the Command of Captain James Cook. Travelling through light rain we observed Young Nick's Head - the first land sighted by cabin boy Nicholas Young from the mast of the Endeavour.

The showers persisted but never hampered our excursion to Gisborne - which began with our first Zodiac. We shuttled into the marina, then travelled through well-tended horticultural fields into a valley in the hills to Eastwoodhill Arboretum, the National Arboretum of New Zealand. The Arboretum is home to the largest collection of Northern Hemisphere trees in the Southern Hemisphere, and a large sampling of New Zealand natives. With local guides, we learned the history of its development and experienced the wide variety of environments it provides.

We stopped at Wrights Vineyard and Winery to sample their delicious organically grown wines and see the grapevines and processing facility that produce them. With a quick transit of the city centre, we were back in the Zodiacs on the way to Heritage Adventurer to prepare for the Captain's Welcome Cocktails.

Captain Thomasz introduced the heads of all the ship's departments, and Cheli briefed us on tomorrow's plans while we enjoyed champagne and got to know fellow passengers better.

Day 4
November 19, 2023
Napier

Another quiet overnight ride and delicious breakfast prepared us for our day in Napier.

After departing Heritage Adventurer, we boarded coaches en route to Cape Kidnappers Gannet Reserve. Along the way, we enjoyed a scenic tour of Napier and viewed the Art Deco buildings erected following the devastating 1931 earthquake - which also allowed us to do a bit of planning for our free time in the city in the afternoon.

We continued our adventure along the Norfolk Island Pine-lined main road and through the country roads that follow the coast toward Cape Kidnappers. Our destination was in sight as we passed the predator-proof fence of the Cape Kidnappers Reserve - New Zealand's largest privately owned and funded mainland island conservation project. The road and farm track were truly remarkable for the steepness of the terrain covered - but our drivers handled it with ease.

The endpoint was certainly worth the journey. On the edge of the steep cliffs and overlooking the Pinnacles in the sea, are four separate Gannet colonies. We stood right next to the Plateau Gannet Colony, which featured thousands of nesting pairs. What a view it was! The place was abuzz with the activity of eggs being incubated, chicks appearing from under the wings of adults, courtship displays, and a constant swarm of take-offs and landings. The approaching birds circled the colony before passing almost within touching distance overhead. They are such beautiful, acrobatic birds that seeing them this closely and in this state of activity was truly unforgettable.

After witnessing this incredible display, we returned to the coaches to journey to Napier - sad to say farewell to these beautiful birds. We enjoyed a light luncheon, which included what could have been some of the largest and tastiest strawberries on Earth.

Arriving in Napier, we were dropped on the main street with a few free hours to look at the Art Deco downtown, grab lunch in a café, or visit the museum to learn more about the earthquake and its aftermath.

Back on Heritage Adventurer, we enjoyed a tasty afternoon tea while Steve coached us on how to improve our images with his talk on Discovering the Basics of Photography.

We finished the day with a briefing from Cheli about tomorrow's activities, and a recap on today before enjoying another wonderful meal

Day 5
November 20, 2023
Marlborough Sounds

After breakfast, we rounded the corner into Cook Strait where Sair continued our education programme with her talk on New Zealand Forest Birds and to show her true commitment to the topic, she was sporting new plumage herself - a bird-themed frock purchased in Napier. Rod followed with a presentation on the linkage between Māori and the Natural World.

It was then on to our first destination for the day, predator-free Motuara Island. We enjoyed walking through the bush listening to and observing native birds. We saw Saddleback/Tieke, Kererū, New Zealand Bellbird/Korimako, New Zealand Robin/Toutouwai and heard the New Zealand Parakeet/Kākāriki. A field of orchids growing on the sunny bank of the track set the scene for an expansive view from the summit.

We then hopped in the Zodiacs and made our way across the sound to Ship Cove. This small cove was Captain James Cook's favourite New Zealand base during his three voyages of exploration. In the Cove, it is easy to see why he returned so often. It is sheltered with a gentle beach to clean the ship's hull, had plenty of fresh water sources, while nearby coves provided local grasses to ward off scurvy. All of this was well explained on the signage by the memorial, and most of us took the opportunity to enjoy a short bush walk to a delightful waterfall. This fabulous day was set in stunning sunshine and blue sky.

Back aboard, we had time to freshen up and grab a beverage before dinner. Heritage Adventurer retraced her course back into Cook Strait and then turned to travel south along the East Coast of the South Island. This proved to provide those on deck after dinner sunset views to the west as they caught a glimpse of the Kaikōura Ranges.

Day 6
November 21, 2023
Akaroa

The weather provided us with another gorgeous blue-sky sunny day on our way to the historic French settlement of Akaroa. Heritage Adventurer's morning cruise around Banks Peninsula gave time for Sair to prep us for the day's adventure - this time with her talk on Cetaceans of New Zealand. More local knowledge was shared by Tamzin with A Shag on Every Island and Annie with Introduction to New Zealand Sea Lions.

By mid-morning we were making the turn for the long run up Akaroa Harbour, and were out on deck in the hope of spotting one of the world's smallest dolphins - New Zealand's endangered Hector's Dolphins. They didn't disappoint, with most of us enjoying excellent views of these amazing mammals as we entered the harbour.

There were a variety of ways to spend the day in Akaroa. Some guests visited French Peak Winery, others explored the historic Pā (Māori fort) site on the Ōnawe Peninsula, and some explored the French-named streets of this quaint town. The expedition team was kept busy shuttling us between the landings, and it was clear from the shopping bags seen returning to Heritage Adventurer that walking was not the only activity. To end the day, John gave a fascinating lecture on the history of the town and the Ōnawe Peninsula.

Day 7
November 22, 2023
Dunedin and Otago Peninsula

It was an early start as Heritage Adventurer sailed through the fine sunshine and snaked her way through the long, narrow harbour en route to Dunedin. Before long, we were docked and ready to explore the charms of this Scottish-influenced city.

There were some fantastic options available! Most chose to journey to the Tūhura Otago Museum. The lively and informative commentary from the Museum guides about the history of Aotearoa was a treat. We learned about Moa, the Haast Eagle, Tuatara and the Tangata Whenua/People of the Land. The dioramas of pre-European settlement and the carved meeting house panels were exceptional.

The drive out to the Royal Albatross Centre at Taiaroa Head twisted along the foreshore of the harbour and allowed a stop in the charming village of Portobello for lunch at the 1908 Restaurant.

It was back in the coach for the final short section to Taiaroa Head all the while entertained by Gary, our coach driver. At the Royal Albatross Centre, we climbed the hill to the viewing platform and headed to the cliff edge to spot returning birds. It was an immersive experience as we viewed the albatross sitting, resting, nesting and flying and enjoyed a fascinating talk about the history of these magnificent birds.

Back on board Heritage Adventurer, we enjoyed an extravagant afternoon tea and had another chance to view the harbour and Taiaroa Head as we ventured into the open ocean and turned south towards our next destination, Stewart Island.

Day 8
November 23, 2023
Stewart Island

Our morning started just outside of Bluff as we sailed across Foveaux Strait bound for Paterson's Inlet, Stewart Island. We were greeted by light rain as we disembarked in Zodiacs and headed for Ulva Island. Greeted by the friendly guides from Ulva's Guided Walks we started our exploration of this captivating island.

Ulva Island was once renowned as the Post Masters Island. New Zealand naturalist and Postmaster Charles Traill was a keen botanist and requested seeds and plants from the vessels that visited with the mail for others around Paterson Inlet.

To announce a mail delivery the flag would be hoisted up the flagstaff and people around the inlet would row to Ulva to collect their post. This made Ulva Island a hive of activity as the community came together. The island was alive in a different manner when we arrived, full of endemic plants, birds and wildlife.

With the rain dripping, the plants glistened and the smell was otherworldly and earthly, adding to the serene nature of this now uninhibited sanctuary. We enjoyed our time exploring the island with our knowledgeable local guides and observed various plants including native orchids, South Island Robin/Kakaruai, and a Yellowhead/Mohua atop its nest.

After exploring the island, we took an exciting Zodiac ride back to Heritage Adventurer for a tasty lunch.

The afternoon saw us disembark at Golden Bay on Stewart Island, where a shuttle bus waited. With Sair at the helm, we were guided into the quirky township of Oban. Here we explored the Rakiura Museum Te Puka O Te Waka, Glowing Sky Merino clothing shop, Beaks and Feathers gift shop and met Dave Goodin, the Pounamu carver.

After witnessing the community spirit in action, it was then back on board Heritage Adventurer for another delicious dinner.

Day 9
November 24, 2023
Fiordland

Awaking to a beautiful sunny day in Fiordland, we journeyed through the scenic Thompson Sound.

Once into the sound (which is really a fiord, of course) it was time to explore by Zodiac! We launched and explored the rocky coast as Professor Rod helped us to better understand the various flora species. It was a trip full of highlights, including navigating a small river into the wild bush and observing Fiordland Crested Penguin/Tawaki on the rocky shore. After several hours cruising in the Zodiacs, we re-boarded Heritage Adventurer for a well-earned lunch.

It was back on the open ocean for the short transit between Doubtful and the Breaksea/Dusky Sounds, we enjoyed a lecture from John about the many activities in Dusky Sound during the 18th and 19th Centuries. Shirley followed explaining how Breaksea Island had been one of the first major islands in New Zealand to be cleared of introduced predators.

Heritage Adventurer continued cruising along the Acheron Passage, with most of us relaxing on the outer decks. We weaved through the many islands in Dusky Sound and along Cook Channel to our anchorage just outside Cascade Cove. To end the day, we basked in the glorious sunshine and enjoyed the sublime scenery.

Day 10
November 25, 2023
Fiordland

We awoke to a glorious morning of sunshine, which radiated off the dramatic hills and mountains of Dusky Sound. After another delicious breakfast, it was time to begin the day's first Zodiac cruise.

Our first landing was at Astronomer's Point for a walk up the boardwalk through the rainforest. The hilltop had been cleared for astronomical observations during James Cook's visit in 1773.

It was a journey through time as we learned the history of the point and could envision the brewery, forges, sailmakers and naturalists at work in that place 250 years ago. Back in the present, we were mesmerised by the expansive bush home to fascinating plants from huge trees to tiny mosses. It was a natural wonderland as birdsong filled the air. A very special start to the day.

Heading back to Heritage Adventurer, we took a scenic Zodiac cruise and observed New Zealand Fur Seals, including large males and pups and the special moment when a pair of Fiordland Crested Penguin/Tawaki bathed and introduced a new chick to the sea.

Back on board the comforts of Heritage Adventurer, we were directed to Deck 6 for a lunchtime barbeque! The sun shone and we enjoyed the incredible cuisine and excellent service provided by the team.

After lunch, we voyaged towards Pigeon Island where we visited the sites occupied and used by Richard Henry, the godfather of New Zealand conservation. Hearing his story from Rod and John, while in his place, was truly special. Still not done, we toured the fiords of Facile Harbour by Zodiac where we added Little Blue Penguins/Kororā to the incredible wildlife we encountered on this voyage.

We made it back aboard in time for Shirley to speak to us about the Russ family business Heritage Expeditions: The Story So Far. It was time for a quick change to attend the Captain's Farewell Cocktails and view the slideshow from our journey.

We all knew our adventure would end at some point, but none of us were really ready as the chatter and laughter in the dining room and bar lasted well beyond our normal bedtimes.

Day 11
November 26, 2023
Bluff

It was a sad farewell as one last delicious breakfast was enjoyed, and contact information was exchanged between guests. Time then for a final walk down the gangway and one last wave to the Expedition Team as we headed off on new adventures, in the secure knowledge that this expedition, and our time together aboard Heritage Adventurer, will linger in our memories for a very long time.