25 Oct 2014

Nendo Island Culture

For many aboard today was the highlight in a trip filled with highlights. We enjoyed a morning aboard the Spirit of Enderby hearing lectures from Adam on ‘The Birds of Melanesia’ and Suzanne on ‘Myth, Magic and Folklore in Melanesia’. Then after an early lunch it was time to head ashore to Lata, the main town on Nendo, the largest of the Santa Cruz Islands, where it was all action as a ferry was leaving for Honiara at the same time as we were boarding our trucks for the ride inland.

The road was in surprisingly good condition as we rolled inland through lush vegetable gardens and plantations which graduated into forest as the journey progressed. It became apparent that this was no ordinary visit when we walked the last few metres into the village and the vegetation on either side of the trail erupted into life as warriors leapt forth to challenge their visitors. This exuberant surprise was eventually calmed by the arrival of the ladies who gave us a warm welcome.

Nendo Chiefs/Red Feather Money

After official speeches and greetings there were many activities to watch or join. One demonstrated red feather money making, where two men painstakingly attached the feathers of the Cardinal Myzomela onto panels which were then woven together. Women showed us how they cooked traditional foods using hot rocks, while outside in the performance area they were dancing up a storm. One lady proudly displayed her feather money on her head while three chiefs danced in full regalia with breast plates and mother-of-pearl nose piercings. After all the excitement, groups drifted off to explore further afield, join a football match with the children or walk along the road to enjoy the forest. When the heavens opened and the rain poured down, most sought shelter, but the football match continued unabated. Eventually we started the ride back despite the rain and a great time was had by all. During the evening recap we had a great introduction to traditional voyaging canoe making on the Duff Islands from canoe builder William who is joining us for the voyage to the Duff Islands.