24 Apr 2016

First visit in 7 years to Malakur

On the remote eastern coast of New Britain Island at Jacquinot Bay is a modest village called Malakur, a community never before visited by Heritage Expeditions. The last time foreign travellers set foot here was over seven years ago; therefore, many of the children had not met white-skinned people before. While this morning’s traditional “sing-sing” was mentioned in last night’s brief, nothing could have quite prepared us for the exuberant energy of the “spirit boys” emanating from shore. As our Zodiacs approached, their warm welcome grew in volume and size to what looked to be over sixty singers, dancers and local bystanders. Twirling frond-covered conical costumes, dancing leaf-fringed sk irts, chorusing singers in perfect harmony, and giggling kids of all ages eagerly awaiting our arrival. A genuine excitement filled the air, which was so moving that several expeditioners later admitted they had tears in their eyes. After introductions and friendly chatter, we settled into a circle for a variety of dynamic performances for which they had been practicing for weeks! One dance in particular is considered a rite of passage for the boys, so to perform it for us was a true honour. Following the dances, several of us joined some of the local children for a playful dip in the crystal-clear river. Once it was time sadly say our goodbyes, we divided into two groups for the next optional activities: a Zodiac cruise or a birding walk. The birders walked first through the family village of Malob, then uphill to the garden where yams, cacao, bananas and cassava are cultivated. Spotted birds included: Bismark Crow, Metallic Starling, Glossy Swiftlets, Moustached Tree Swift, Long- tailed Minor, Blue-eyed Cockatoo. The Zodiac cruisers headed upriver through dense forest, passing small settlements and stopping for some bird watching.

Following lunch, we enjoyed two onboard lectures. Resident naturalist and bird expert, Christopher Collins, walked us through the possible wildlife sightings for seabirds, land birds, and cetaceans; and biologist and rainforest expert Martin Cohen presented an excellent overview of the rainforests around the world.