26 Oct 2014

Duff Island Dancing

This morning the sun rose from behind the jagged line of peaks, which form the Duff Islands. The largest of them, Taumoko, was our primary destination for the day. The morning scouting trip revealed that we would need to wait until there was more water to navigate the reef so we changed our plans and went snorkelling near Obelisk Island for the morning. With a persistent swell running from the south, the snorkelling was an adventure. The four local lads with us could snorkel to great depths or in amongst the surf with impunity, so their idea of a good snorkelling site and ours was a little different. We eventually found a suitable spot where the swell was a little less overpowering and we had excellent visibility which showed a wide array of marine life including 3 species of sharks.

We returned to Taumoko for the afternoon and after an exciting crossing of the reef we cruised in past the beautifully constructed artificial islands in the lagoon to our landing at the main village. Here we were welcomed by Paramount Chief Noel and the Council of Chiefs who informed us that ours is the first ship with travellers to visit since 1978 when the only other expedition ship paid a visit. Once everyone arrived ashore we were treated to a warm welcome with the Polynesian ancestry of the islanders coming to the fore in the rhythms and words of the performances.

Duff Island Dancers

Afterwards when there was time to wander and explore, the birders found a profusion of Palm Lorikeets and several of our group provided the locals with the revelation that white people can dance. The only white people they had previously encountered were very serious, so it came as quite a shock that we can dance too! With the sun setting on the rugged green hills we returned to the Spirit of Enderby and the consensus was that we had crossed a divide somewhere in recent days and were now in the Pacific Ocean proper.