20 Dec 2015

Auckland Islands Outings

Enderby Island

Over the last two days we made landings at two sites here at the Auckland Islands and as we depart we are all contemplating the difference between Enderby and the main Auckland Island. Yesterday, Enderby Island (the northern-most island and 710ha) provided a mostly clear day with winds just strong enough to allow the Light-mantled Sooty Albatross to put on a show and soar the western cliffs. We also enjoyed numerous sightings of the flightless teal, Sea Lions, Yellow-eyed Penguins, cormorants, Giant Petrels, Kakariki, Bellbirds and Tuis to name a few. The anisotome and bulbinella lit up the low-lying areas while the Rata lay in wait to bloom in the coming months. The majority of expeditioners took the longer 12km hike around the island and many friendships were made along the way. The remainder of the group spent longer viewing the western cliffs before retracing their steps along the boardwalk to take in the spectacle at a more leisurely pace. Good weather days like this are not all that common at 50 degrees latitude and as if to remind us, there was a rain shower just as we ended our day ashore.

This morning we awoke in the embrace of the large volcanically formed Carnley Harbour at the south of the main Auckland Island. With low lying cloud common in this part of the island, we opted for an extended Zodiac cruise to several locations in the Northern Arm. With the pigs, cats and mice still remaining on this island, the reduction in wildlife when compared with Enderby Island was noticeable and gave us a clear reminder of the value of pest eradication on islands such as these. We imagined the enticing possibilities of what would be possible if eradication was to take place here.

Wreck of the Grafton

Our first visit was to the ‘Erlagen clearing’. The crew of this German warship took shelter here and cut an extensive area of Rata to fuel their ship to make a run to neutral territory at the start of WW1. Making our way along the Rata fringed coastline, our next stop was at the site of the wreck of the Grafton which was washed ashore in 1864. The story of the wreck and the resulting hardship and success equals that of any other Subantarctic small boat survival story. Now all that remains of the Grafton and the crew’s 19-month presence here are some pieces of wooded hull and a pile of rocks from their hut. We were all taken by the remarkable adaptability and a few tears were even shed at the location of this lonely shipwreck. The third largest breeding location for the Hooker’s Sea Lion, Figure Eight Island, was quiet with just a sighting of a young male, leaving us wondering about the fate of this endangered species in the future.